Inside a nondescript building in New York’s Garment District, Calvin Klein himself waited patiently for a fashion show to begin. 205 West 39th Street—the brand’s longtime headquarters—served as the venue for a highly anticipated moment: the return of Calvin Klein Collection under its newly appointed creative director, Veronica Leoni.
At 83, Klein was as charismatic as ever, mingling with an audience that included both longtime muses and new faces, such as Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and FKA Twigs.
A Historic Appointment and a Bold Debut
The runway was set, with an open-floor, carpeted space emblazoned with the Calvin Klein logo—a fitting stage for Leoni’s first collection. This marks the brand’s first Collection runway show in six years, following Raf Simons’ departure.
With a resume that boasts The Row, Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and her own label Quira, Leoni is not only the first woman to helm Calvin Klein Collection, but she also faces the challenge of reviving an iconic label, one that helped define modern American style.
And Klein himself was watching from the front row.
Refined Sensuality and Precise Tailoring
As Kendall Jenner, Binx Walton, and Selena Forrest walked the runway, the collection’s direction became clear—a strong yet restrained sensuality.
The first look, a monastic black sheath dress with long sleeves and a high neckline, set the tone. From there, elongated wool coats in soft grays and crisp whites, sculpted skirt suits with sharp shoulders, and angular pinstripe tailoring offered a fresh perspective on power dressing.
Leoni’s mastery of precision tailoring was evident in fluid front-panel shirts, oversized trenches, and curve-hugging dresses that explored texture and movement. A standout moment? A gold paillette-covered maxi dress, shimmering with every step.
